As much as I love breakfast, I usually eat my first meal of the day at home. Going out for brunch is a luxury.
But the perfect occasion came up recently when a friend and I were looking for a place in her Kailua neighborhood to catch up. I found out Banyan’s Craft Kitchen & Lounge had just started its new weekend brunch menu (available from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays). How serendipitous.
The eatery — headed by Food Network Chopped champion chef Cidney Wilcox — fits in perfectly with Kailua’s brunch scene. The interior is social media-worthy. During brunch, it’s lighter and brighter (compared to dinner, but I digress), and guests can enjoy live music while they dine.
If you start with mimosas, you can add juice to any glass of bubbles at no extra charge. Other available libations included Bellini cocktails ($11), espresso martinis ($13) and Chef Cidney’s Mary Mix with varying alcoholic choices.
The brunch menu boasted a mix of sweet and savory dishes. We opted for hot honey
chicken + beignets ($26), “biscuits + gravy” ($35), and bread pudding French toast ($18) to share. The buttermilk-brined fried chicken thighs boasted a delectable crisp. They had a kick but were balanced nicely by the sugar-laden beignets, which were light and not overly doughy.
Surprisingly, the “biscuits and gravy” — Cheddar Bay biscuits topped with crispy lobster “corn dogs” and creamy chorizo gravy — packed more heat than the hot honey chicken. This was probably my favorite entree because of the crispy lobster “corn dogs” (one of my fave dishes from the dinner menu); but I simply couldn’t finish it because the chorizo gravy’s spice got the best of me.
The French toast was more reminiscent of bread pudding — definitely not a bad thing, just something to keep in mind if you’re thinking your entree will look like French toast. It featured purple potato French bread drizzled with vanilla rum creme anglaise and served with fresh fruit on the side. It was the perfect sweet respite after the spicier, savory dishes, but was on the heavier side and easy for us to fill up on.
Other brunch offerings included kalua pork hash ($22) with pan-fried Okinawan gnocchi and savory veggies, vegan avocado smash tostada ($15) and Banyan’s s’mores tabletop campfire ($25). The latter is a popular dessert from the dinner menu.
Speaking of dinner — in the evening, the eatery’s interior transforms into a darker, moodier setting, ideal for a romantic date night or a nice girls’ night out. The menu is still focused on elevated comfort food served family-style. It’s better to come with a group than a date because you’ll get to try more dishes.
The dinner menu has changed since my last visit. When I first checked out the restaurant back in August — soon after its opening — I enjoyed the tako taco ($22) and lobster “corn dog” ($32). The former — charred local octopus with Spanish chorizo, cilantro lime crema and romesco foam — was flavorful and tender, much to my relief, as sometimes tako can be too rubbery for my liking.
Those who follow Chopped will recognize this dish as the one Wilcox made on the show.
The “corn dogs” comprised corn-battered lobster tails and came with a creamy “yum yum aioli” and wasabiko. Though heavily battered, the lobster tails were a highlight.
Desserts included baklava cheesecake tarts ($16) and Banyan’s smores tabletop campfire ($25). The latter featured a social-media-worthy DIY experience, as the homemade marshmallows, chocolate and graham crackers were brought to the table. Think of a gourmet twist on a campfire classic, as the chocolates are from Manoa Chocolate and the marshmallows are homemade by Wilcox herself.
Banyan’s Craft Kitchen & Lounge
Address
32 Maluniu Ave., Kailua
Phone
808-261-6733
Hours
Weekend brunch
9 a.m.-2 p.m.
Lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays
Dinner 6-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays
Website
banyanskailua.com
Instagram
@banyanskailua
Price: $20-$30 brunch, $20-$40 dinner
Parking: Street parking available
